Alesis M1 Active MK2 repair – Flashing Blue LED FIX
Posted by James on August 10, 2012 · 38 Comments
Sorry for the poor image, done on my phone, but its to show you how easy it is to fix, read for details below. —————————————————————– The flashing blue LED and loss of sound on the Alesis M1 powered monitor is caused by failure of capacitor C8 (220uF, 35V) on the power supply board. It dries up due to its proximity to resistor R4 (47K, 2 W) which gets very hot. This is a design fault. Procedure: Remove the power supply board (4 corner screws and 2 mains connector screws) and disconnect the two plugs. Carefully desolder C8 and replace it. Its value is not extremely critical (220 to 470 uF will do) but it should be a 105 deg. type, preferably at 50V. Remove R4 and replace it with a similar resistor with its leads bent so that it is nowhere near C8, otherwise the fault will return. One end may be connected to one of the existing R4 solder pads (furthest from rear of board), and the other to the top end of resistor R3. Check that you have connected it correctly by inspecting the PCB tracks. It was recommend to us to replace C35 (1uf/50v). We did not do this, and can not see what advantage it has.. !!! Replace the board and all screws and plugs before testing.!!! IN THIS VIDEO WE ONLY REPLACED C8 that was all that was needed. we pushed the existing C4 away from the new C8 capacitor in both speakers . It was an easy fix. If you know how to solder and de-solder, you can do this. I could have done this as a newbie, but my brother is more …
This is a test drive of my 4 year old Proton Savvy compact car, 1149cc Renault D4F, 75BHP @ 5500rpm, 105nm @ 4250rpm, Galvanized high tensile steel monoque chassis, front wheel drived, sequencial gearbox (manual gearbox anatomy, no torque-converter), bore x stroke 69mm x 76mm, in-line 4, drive-by-wire throtle body, multi-port fuel injected, SOHC 16Valves. Front suspension is McPherson configuration, lower control arm mounted on square type subframe, rear suspension is programmed deflection torsion axle. This gearbox is basically anatomically similar to a manual tranmission, having a single clutch plate and 5 foward ratios with reverse. The shifter in the gearbox is controlled by a hydraulic actuator and the clutch is controlled a hydraulic clucth actuator pump. The pressure for the hydraulic system is built by a main electrical pump. There are some issues with the gearbox hydraulic main electrical pump due to insufficient electrical reservoir resulting in undervoltage during shifts which caused overheating, jamming and premature failure. Critical failure at 36000 km millage. Replaced the main electrical pump which failed due to undervoltage resulting in loss of pressure for both the hydraulic shifter actuator and the hydraulic clutch pump. Manufacturer refuses to admit design fault. Basically the current ratings between hydraulic system and the cars electrical reservoir were mismatched. After expensive repairs, the same symptoms of rough and jerky gear changes still …
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Soldering didn’t go as smoothly as I had hoped, and thus I have irrevocably broken the circuit by breaking off a piece of the micro thin ground that connects every thing. I’m not too sure how to fix it, but it happened when a dried piece of? solder punched thru the hole (where the pins go) and took some of the circuit board with it (thin layer of that green stuff). Although I failed at repairing it (for now) I’m happy to have tried!
I just had this issue come up, and I’m very happy to have found your video. I had been powering these monitors for weeks on end without shutting them down, then last night shut the left monitor down. Once? powered up, I got the blinking blue LED. Hoping to try this out, but need to watch some soldering videos first 🙂
great news? man, thats makes my day, really pleased for you, spread the word!
You are the MAN!!! My M1 620’s both had capacitor C8 issues. One? went out last night and I found this video. One trip to radio shack, $2.70 later…they are both FIXED!!!
Thank you!
Hello there, my Alesis? 1 MK2, is completly dead.
when i turn it on it has no power what so ever. not even flashing light. i dont know what to check on it, could u help?
thanks
Hi, the only problem I have is the LED that is not working, the sound is perfect.? I have to replace only the LED light, dont I?
i had mine 8 years? before any problem. good luck
What type of capacitor? is the best? I’m don’t found 35v 330uf 8mm capacitor.
Can I substitute with something else?
Thanks!
Ok, after having my m1 active mk2 speakers gathering? dust for the last 4 years because of this blue flashing light and no audio problem, I finally decided to try this fix a few days ago.
It worked perfectly and the speakers are back up and running. Total cost E3.95, and a favour from a brother who’s handy with a soldering iron. Both he and a technician told me to replace it with a 330uf 100v 105c. Thanks for post it was very helpful.
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cheak solder, use a? multi meter,
Hi, i have replaced C8. but when i turn it on its start blinking again and after that guard have? blown out…do you have any idea what should i do?)
Thanks for the video worked perfectly. Although is it normal for the speakers to stay hot even when the power is off? Did? I do something wrong? Thanks
My right speaker started to flash a few months ago so I ordered the caps. I was able to get the speaker to come on by turning it off and and then on when the LED went out so when it powered up correctly I just left it on, until today when the painters were painting my room and I had to turn them off. Set everything back up and the speaker would just flash.
Swapped out the cap and it powers up? perfectly.
A MOSFET can also blow when it goes overvoltage slightly. This usually happens silently and without any external signs that it’s done so. Alternatively an open circuit MOSFET on a switched mode PSU, is usually so because it’s popped like a little mortar. There’ll be a nice crack down the middle where it’s let all the blue smoke out.
To fix it you’ll? have to find the blue smoke and try and force it back in or alternatively buy a new one.
This may sound stupid but have you checked for any solder tracking between the pads on the side where the? capacitor is soldered? Because the capacitor is directly across the power supply rail, any shorts like that will blow the fuse. Otherwise a general short elsewhere on the board wouldn’t have caused the flashing led problem in the first place and probably wouldn’t have caused the cap to blow unless it was a sudden discharge caused by one of the MOSFETs in the PSU going low resistance.
Hey Aaron, i have? changed one the black capacitor because it was a bit swallowed but still keep blowing the fuse any idea..thanks
I updated the info on this video, read? for more..
Being the other voice and the hands doing the soldering in the video. I bought mine from ebay…
Ebay item 180704682715 @ £1.85. Capacitors as a rule don’t have recognisable part numbers as such. Go for 220uF 50v 105C and you’re fine!
I bought a batch of five but only 2 of them were needed. So the others are spare in case it happens again.
I’ve only given the link for C8 as the C35 replacement although recommended wasn’t actually needed. I took one off and tested it only to find it? was fine.
Great vid guys, thumbs up! but would it be possible to let us know exactly where in the UK you can get the replacement C8, maybe you could also supply a? part number or some way for us n00bs to get the same part as you used, thanks
yes? from what i know you can only get polarized?? in that size anyway, good luck!
yes? you want polarized?
Nice work? guys. A job well done.
Hello Aaron, I have a question.. I am having the same problem, so? i need to replace the capacitor also. My question is, does the capacitor have to be polarized or non-polarized?
btw My name is Chan in the Savvy forum and this is my new YouTube? account. You can get my number from the forum. I am selling this condenser assembly now.
Haha,? that’s because the driver makes it look good. He overtakes all the “kiasu” drivers before they can even show their attitude.
where? can i find the gear box and how much..i got problem with the gearbox it always jam and the auto light always appear…need the savvy amt gear box properly consider to change it to manual gearbox….tolong2….where can i find and price??????
DIY 0.5 farad voltage condenser
where and how does one look like? ?
AMT? forget it.. underpowered. a stock? manual savvy could beat u anytime anywhere
Speaking of which, the third-world feudalistic corrupted mentality of Malaysia extents all the way into its “private industries” as well. HAHAHA…. nothing has changed till today, even after not visiting? my old YT account for almost 3 years. Basically the best thing that happened to me back in Malaysia was this car…
now, it’s all pariah-up,? with th influx of immigrants, and the never ending third-world mentality…..
Yup, except for the fact that this incompetant company had spent loads of money consulting external expertise for design and QC. The only plus points here are the evident Lotus tuned handling and TUV certified chassis (chassis only). And? basically everything else is third world standard.
somehow, subang jaya seems? more beautifull and peaceful in a video, rather than real life..
Great video. Where can i get this DIY 0.5 farad voltage condenser you have used? I just bought myself a savvy amt and is researching on? how to take care of the car properly.
This car has a Clio dash & engine, is it a Clio in? disguise?
can i learn from you how to? do it?
SUBANG? JAYA!!!
“using a DIY 0.5 farad voltage condenser”
does using a 1 farad voltage capasitor like the one sold in car? accessories shop solve this problem too?
i used the aftermarket ‘I-charge’ and it made a little different i guess..